July 1997

Montreal: French Treat

Valerie Schroth

True to their French heritage, Montrealers are passionate about food and love to eat out. "We die poor," one woman told us, "but we have a good time." The city has over 4000 restaurants of every size and stripe from humble to haute - with sidewalk cafés and luxurious rooftop restaurants, chic bistros, salons de thé and sleek sushi bars.

Many restaurant have table d'hôte menus, in which the price of the main course includes an appetizer and a simple dessert - a boom to the frugal gourmet. At charming La Gargote in the Old Port area, a local favorite with stone walls and wood-beamed ceiling, we enjoyed delicious traditional French food at remarkably low prices. We had wonderfully succulent leg of lamb and braised duck au framboises, with mashed potatoes and vegetables for $14.75 and $14.95 respectively (which translates to $9.93 and $10.06 U.S.), and that included choice of soup or eggplant Milanese to start, and île flottant for dessert. At these prices, we recklessly threw in an order of escargots à la carte. Served in little shells of phyllo pastry nestled in a delicious tomato sauce, they were the best we've ever tasted.